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After seeing several other web sites with poker table construction details I decided to build my own. I read through the
pcpotato site instructions, as well as
Scott Keen's site. Both of these sites have great ideas for building a table, and I would be using these sites for my project. I have also added some small changes of my own here and there, like the railing construction, for example.
I used standard 4x8 plywood, 3/4" thick, with one smooth side. I won't post prices for my materials as I live in Hawaii, and most of the materials that could be found here are much more expensive than in North America (almost $70 per sheet of plywood - see?!)
Click on any picture to see a larger view.
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I decided to go with a full-size table, measuring four feet wide by eight feet long. I figured using the full width of the plywood would give the players in the corners a little more shoulder room - plus, it's a lot less cutting!
Here, I mark the plywood down the middle, and then 24 inches from each edge. I then tapped in a smooth finishing nail. Rather than using string or twine, which can stretch too much, I used thin bailing wire. With pliers I made a small loop at one end to slip over the nail. I placed my pen right on the edge of the plywood and marked the wire at the pen. Here is where I'll make the loop for the pen. Carefully draw the arc - repeat on the other end.
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After I cut the plywood that will be the actual table top, I placed it on top of another sheet that will be part of my railing. Carefully align the two sheets and, using the top sheet, draw your lines on the second sheet. I found that no matter how accurate I tried to get my cuts, they were a little different at each end of each sheet of plywood. I suggest marking one end of each sheet of plywood so everything lines up when you're ready to add the rail. I used a simple asterisk (*) drawn at one end of each sheet of plywood, this way I could easily tell which way to orient the rail to the table top.
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I went with a five inch wide railing. After cutting the second sheet of plywood I marked it five inches in and cut out the railing. Save the big inner piece you just cut out for later.
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Next I checked the fit of the rail by placing it on the table top - aligning the marks I'd made earlier.
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Now, back to the table top itself. Here I mark the table top at one inch, all the way around to make the lower rail piece.
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I needed to make a small slot for the jigsaw blade and drilled a series of small holes along the line. I used a jigsaw blade with a very wide bite to make this cut. Doing this allows room for the felt between the lower railing piece and the table top. Make sure you mark both pieces - the lower railing piece and the table - for orienting their positions later.
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Now I've got the lower rail section in one piece.
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Next, using wood glue and screws I attach the two railing pieces together.
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Now I test fit the rail - aligning my orientation marks and I've got a perfect fit!
Now I can take my belt sander to all the edges and clean everything up.
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Now we come back to that piece we cut out of the center of the railing. With my table top laying face down, I set this large oval piece on top, center it and draw a line around it on the table sheet. Using glue and screws I attach the two pieces together. This extra layer adds strength and weight, giving the table much more stability.
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With a line drawn down the middle of the underside of the table, I measure 20 inches from each edge for my table legs. Once the legs are attached open them up and flip the table over. Then set the rail in place.
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I wanted to be able to bolt the rail to the table to add to the stability. Once I had set the rail on the table I drilled ten 1/4 inch holes, evenly spaced all the way around, two inches from the inside edge of the rail. I drilled all the way through the rail and table top. Then I hammered these "T-nuts" into the top of the rail.
I won't repeat the details of applying the padding/felt/vinyl here, as these are convered quite nicely on other sites. I used
Scott Keen's method of applying foam and felt to the table top, and
pcpotato's method of padding and covering the rail.
I used a velveteen material for the table felt and I am quite happy with it. I bought the felt and really nice stretchable vinyl from
Poker 'n Stuff.
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Once I added the table felt and covered the rail, I set the rail in place and bolted it down. These flat head 'connecting bolts' help to avoid catching the players legs underneath the table. I bought these bolts and the 'T nuts' at Home Depot.
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Here's the finished table, all ready for a tournament.
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